INTRODUCTION:

Nowadays, People are increasing their interest in natural resources as the population becomes aware of ecological and environmental effects related to the use of rich chemicals in day-to-day products.¹Cosmetics derived from natural sources are referred to as organic cosmetics, which are thought to be safe and occasionally have medicinal Properties. Dye or colorant is one of the primary sources of raw materials used in cosmetics.

The term "Natural dyes" describes Colorants derived from organic materials like Plants, animals, insects, or minerals. The dyes are also widely applicable in coloring food, beverages, crafts, medications, and fabrics in addition to cosmetics even though the technique of obtaining the colors involved in some processing the dye itself was primarily derived from natural sources. Fruits and leaves from kingdom Plantae were the main Producers of dyes.²

The term lip balm is used to refer to products that are applied to the lips to prevent them from drying out and protect them from harmful environmental elements.³Numerous well-known businesses including the Body Shop, Nivea and mentholated manufacture of lip balm for the market. Some of these Products may contain chemical Sources. However, it is necessary to balance the concentration of the main ingredients to formulate lip balms including the base oils coloring agents and flavoring agents. Natural lip balms Provide a natural means of preserving and advancing lip health. Additionally, balm were used frequently for chew away at the contents so it’s critical that they do not pose a health risk to people when consumed. There are four main components as important formulations ingredients for natural lip balm, wax is essentially used as a bases to give lip balm a more robust structure and to make simpler to Produce the desired shape. In order to create an appropriate film on the applied lip skin that protect and moisturizes the lip, oil must correctly mix with the waxes coloring agents or dyes is usually utilized to offers a distinctive appearance to the items.⁴

Dye is a crucial component of cosmetic compositions. Cosmetic dyes used should not be affected by oxidizing or reducing agents, as well as pH changes, and they should not interfere with tests and assays. Commercial use of synthetic dyes was made to achieve eye catching colors.³Although it is dangerous to environment and skin, the absence of accurate technical understanding on the extraction procedure and drying procedures coupled with a lack of botanical knowledge has prevented natural dyes from becoming as successful commercially as synthetic color. A Flavoring agent is required to mask the basic taste sensations namely salt, bitter, and acid from the other ingredients. This is an optical way to add value to the products because of the high quality of color that can be produced with them. The compatibility of colorant with other ingredients and medications is determined by the most important characteristics.⁵It should be inexpensive and readily available without any unpleasant taste and odor example of coloring agent such as beetroot powder, spirulina powder, turmeric powder, cocoa powder, mica powder, fruit and vegetable juices annatto seed extract.^6,7

There is a distinction between the lip and regular skin structure

Lips are more beautiful compare to regular skin. Regular skin typically includes 15–16 layers in the top corneum layer, primarily for protection. In comparison to the normal skin of the face, the top corneum layer of the lip is extremely thin and only has three to four layers. The skin of lips hardly contains any melanin in its cells. The blood vessels can be seen more clearly through the lip skin, resulting in a beautiful pinkish shade on the lips. The surface of the lips is free of sweat glands or hair follicles. Thus it does not include perspiration or body oil to shield the lip from the environment.⁶

Anatomy of Lips:

Vermilion/white roll, sub-vermilion, peristomal, philtra column, and commissural are the five main zones. The dry mucosal lip and the peristomal at the intersection of the dry and moist mucosal lips are represented by the sub vermilion. Whereas the vermilion lower lip is separated into medial and lateral zones, the vermilion/white roll on the upper lip can be separated into the lateral, apical cupid's bow, and center filtra zones. The peristomal and sub vermillion are separated into medial and lateral zones, respectively. Lips: Four zones make up the lips' surface: the oral mucosa, vermilion rim, hairy skin, and vermilion. Age and ethnicity have a significant impact on the typical lip shape. Vermilion: The lip's red portion.

Figure of antomy of herbal lip balm

A specialized stratified squamous epithelium covers it. The lighter skin border that divides the vermilion from the surrounding skin is known as the Cinnabar Border. The outline of the line created by the upper lip's vermilion border is known as Cupid's bow. Mouth: The upper and lower cinnabars define the entrance. The corner of the mouth is the intersection of the lower and upper lips' lateral vermilion facets.⁷

The upper and lower lips are known as the labium superiors’ ores and labium inferiors’ ores, respectively. Mucosa, vermilion, and skin surfaces are present in both the upper and lower lips. This article provides a brief overview of anatomy, musculature of the lips, as well as important surgical and clinical considerations regarding lip pathology. The vermilion zone is often the focus of attention when discussing lips, but the upper lip stretches from the nasolabial folds to the inferior margin of the nose. The lateral commissures and labiodental crease of the chin are covered by the lower lip. At the mouth angle, the commissure, where the upper and lower lips meet, is known as the commissure.⁸

Lip Disorders^9,10:

Swelling: The lips may swell as a result of an allergic reaction. The reaction could be caused by sensitivity to specific meals, drinks, medications, lipstick, or airborne irritants. The lips typically return to normal once the culprit has been found and removed. The cause of the swelling is often unknown. Recurrent episodes of swelling can be caused by hereditary angioedema, which is a disorder.

Inflammation:

Cheilitis, or inflammation of the lips, can cause discomfort, irritation, redness, cracking, and scaling in the corners of the mouth. A lack of vitamin B2 in the diet can cause cheilitis.

Discoloration:

Around the lips, freckles and irregularly shaped brownish patches called melanotic macules are frequent and can persist for years. There is no reason to be concerned about these marks. Numerous small, dispersed brownish-black patches could indicate Peutz-Jeghers syndrome, a genetic condition that causes stomach and intestinal polyps. The unidentified cause of Kawasaki disease, which is most prevalent in infants and children aged 8 and under, can cause dry, cracked lips and reddening of the mouth's lining.

Sores:

Skin cancer may be the cause of a raised spot or a lip sore with sharp edges. Various sores can appear as signs of various illnesses, like syphilis or an infection with the oral herpes simplex virus. The cause of some others, such keratoacanthoma, is unknown.

Allergic Contact Chelities:

Personal hygiene products like toothpaste and mouthwash, which contain a variety of antibacterial agents, essential oils, and preservatives, are the most prevalent cause of contact cheilitis.⁸

Application of Herbal Lip Balm:

Formulations known as lip balms are applied to the lips to shield them from harmful environmental elements and stop them from drying out. There are currently many chemical-based lip balms on the market from brands including Blister, Himalaya, Nivea, and The Body Shop. Although there is little information on this kind of formulation in the cosmetic literature, references to lipstick are relevant because it is a cosmetic form that is comparable to lip balm. This resemblance encompasses organic and stability requirements, which include resistance to temperature changes, pleasant taste, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adhesion, and ease of deliberate removal. Considering that lip balm is a product meant for both men and women, it should not be compared to lip gloss.⁶

Advantages of natural lip balm:¹¹

1. Lip balms aid in preserving the lips' inherent attractiveness and health.

2. It has been demonstrated that sunblock lip balms shield the lips from UV damage.

3. Both men and women can use these products; they are not gender specific.

4. Lip balm products aid in protecting lips that are prone to dryness, chapping, and cold sores.

5. It revitalizes, revitalizes, and treats lip-related problems brought on by allergies, the flu, and colds.

6. The application of natural lip cosmetics to improve skin health and facial appearance.

Disadvantages of Synthetic Lip balm:

1. Lip balms containing inferior components might cause significant damage to the lips. Instead of hydrating the lips, such lip balms may cause them to become parched.

2. Addiction to lip balms is another drawback that is frequently observed when using them.

3. Some businesses make lip balms just with aesthetics in mind, neglecting the softness of the skin and its health advantages. These kinds of products will progressively erode the lips' natural color, suppleness, and radiance.

4. In addition to being more difficult to get, naturally derived colors and flavors also have problems with product stability.

5. Other drawbacks of natural oils include their greasiness, comedogenicity, and reduced spreadability.^8,12

Characteristic of lip balm

1) Resistance to temperature variation

2) Pleasant flavor

3) Smoothness during application

4) Innocuousness

5) Adherence and easy intentional removal.^12,13

Table 1. List of Natural Ingredients

Base	Oils	Flavoring agent	Coloring agent
Cocca butter	Coconut oil	Strawberry	Beetroot
Bees wax	Olive oil	Honey	Pomegranate
Shea wax	Almond oil	Orange	Marigold
Shea butter	Vitamin e oil	Kesar	Tomato
White bees wax	Peanut oil	Rasbeery	Jabul
Yellow bees wax	Tea tree oil	Vanilla	Watermelon
Carnauba wax	Glycerine	Mangoes	Honey
Candelilla wax	Castor oil	Rose oil	Saffron
Mango butter	Jojoba oil	Sandalwood	Turmeric
Avocado butter	Corn oil	Jasmin	Capsicum
Olive oil	Arachis oil	Cherry	Cherry
Sweat almond butter	Sesame oil	Apricot	Mango
Sweat almond wax	Sunflower oil	Rosemary	Carrot
Olive butter	Avocado oil	Lemon	Strawberry
Jojoba wax	Lemon oil	Apple	Orange
Raspberry butter	Grape seed oil	Pineapple	Lemon

Base:

A crucial component organization for the production of decorative cosmetics and personal care products is shaped by waxes. Waxes are used in unusual products and industries. They are mostly used in candles, but they are also found in important programs as thickeners and emulsifiers in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical sectors. Esters are the main ingredients in waxes, which are complex chemical mixtures of fatty acids and hydrocarbons. Waxes are generally harder, less oily, and more brittle than fats. They are highly resistant to bacteria, oxidation, and moisture. There are four main types of waxes: (a) plant-based waxes, like candelilla, jojoba, and beeswax; (b) animal-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin, and spermaceti; (c) mineral waxes, including ozonodite, paraffin, microcrystalline, and ceresin; and (d) synthetic waxes, like polyethylene, carbowax, acrawax, and stearon. The three most commonly used waxes in beauty products are candelilla, carnauba, and beeswax.^8,14

Oil:

To create a sufficient film on the applied lip skin, the oil mixture must correctly blend with the waxes. The optimal mixture is one that makes it possible for the product to be produced quickly and with good covering power. Olive oil or sunflower oil will both provide excellent shine. Castor oil is utilized in many lip balms due to its valuable properties; however, these days, solvents or ethereal are employed instead. A high-quality refined castor oil has a pleasing hue and no taste or odor. Castor oil works wonders as a plasticizer.¹⁵

Coloring Agent:

Since the beginning of time colors has been used in cosmetics. Color is one of the most important factors in cosmetic formulations, as consumer purchasing decisions are mainly influenced by their senses of sight, touch, and smell. The primary concern for colorants is their compatibility with other materials and medications. It must be widely accessible, reasonably priced, and free of offensive taste and odour. Examples of natural colorants include turmeric, saffron, beet root, and others. The dried stigma of Cross Sativus line flowers is used to make saffron. This perennial shrub is cultivated in India's Kashmir region. Additionally, Spain, France, Greece, and Iran cultivate it.¹³

Table 2. Natural coloring agent

Whiten	Anthoxanthin	Potato, Onion, Banana, Cauliflower, Ginger
Yellow Orange	Carotenoids	Papaya, Pineapple, Pumpkin, Carrot, Orange
Red	Lycopene	Beetroot, Tomato, Strawberry, Watermelon, Pomegranate
Green	Chlorophyll	Avocado, Kiwi, Cucumber, Spinach, Broccoli
Purple Blue	Anthocyanin	Grapes, Blueberry Plum, Purple Cabbage, Black Berry

Antioxidant:
These days, antioxidants are frequently listed as the active ingredient in many marketed cosmetics. Free radicals can be produced by oxidation reactions, as is well known. This may initiate a series of events that harm skin cells. Increasing the quantity of free radicals may cause the skin to wrinkle, age, and dry out. It is commonly recognized that plants have the ability to naturally synthesize antioxidant molecules that may be able to regulate the oxidative stress brought on by oxygen and sunlight.⁸

Flavouring Agent:

In order to conceal the four fundamental taste sensations, flavouring agents or Flavors are typically needed. A variety of physiochemical and physiological processes that affect how chemicals are perceived are involved in the mixed feeling of taste, touch, smell, sight, and sound that is referred to as flavour. No potentially harmful or irritating ingredients should be included in lip balm flavours. These should taste excellent and be able to cover up the base's fatty smell. Flavouring agents are a crucial part of this process since they both cover up the fatty or waxy base's smell and add a pleasing flavour. The Flavors should be subtle enough not to clash with or dominate any other flavors that may be used in combination with the lip balm.⁶

Method of preparation:

In a clean evaporating dish, weigh all the necessary ingredients according to the table. First, melt the beeswax on a water bath, stirring until it melts completely. Next, add the colouring agent, which has been dissolved in oil, to the melted wax mixture. Finally, add the antioxidant agent and flavouring agent, mixing constantly to create a homogenised mixture. Finally, pour the mixture into lubricated and clean moulds and let them cool to cause the waxes to contract, making it easier to remove the balm.^8,14,17

Types of lip balms:

1. Moisturising lip balm: If you use this lip balm during winter, it may cause your lips to crack because it is too quickly absorbed. In the summer, it is a better choice.

2. Tinted Lip Balm: Tinted lip balms can be used to hydrate and colorize lips without wearing a heavy coat of lipstick.

3. Medicated Lip Balm: Medicated lip balms are the least soothing and irritating lip balms among them, and they are usually prescribed by dermatologists

4. Organic Lip Balm: Organic lip balm is a lip balm that uses organic or natural ingredients, while there are other lip balms that contain chemical ingredients.

5. SPF Lip Balm: SPF lip balm is a lip balm that has ingredients that shield the lips from the harmful effects of sunlight^.18

1. Herbal Lipstick:

Written by V. Anilkumar, M.D Dhanraj. The formulation of natural lipstick which contain Natural ingredients that have Moisturizing, nourishing and protective benefits. The formulation is made up of herbal extracts waxes, oils and pigment. Method used to select suitable ingredients based on their beneficial properties. Analysing the compatibility of these ingredients with each other. The Preparation of herbal lipsticks involves common Solvent such as waxes like beeswax or candelilla wax are used to create structure and consistency. Oils such as castor oil, Coconut oil or olive oil improve the spread ability and moisturizing properties. Natural colour derived from plant bases for pigmentation. It was determined that herbal lipsticks that were formulated using natural ingredients were effective in providing colour, hydration and protection to the lip. Consumers can choose them a safer option due to their lower side effect. Castor oil, among other Natural waxes and oil is the best Solvent to create stable and effective herbal lipsticks. The texture and Spreadability are enhance by this combination. According to author, herbal lipsticks are Promising alternative to traditional lip product. The important of using nature ingredients for health benefits and environmental sustainability is highlighting by them. The review suggests that more research be conducted on the optimization of herbal formulation and the exploration of new herbal ingredients to enhance the efficacy and appeal of herbal lipstick.¹⁹

2. Medicated Lip balm containing beetroot powder:

It is written by Prajakta Gowde et.al. The main ingredients for making herbal lip balm are Beetroot powder, strawberry, Bees wax, cocoa Butter, castor oil, orange oil, Pineapple Honey etc. they have collected aall the ingredients in the month of Oct to Nov, coco butter, bees wax, Castor oil, Beetroot powder etc. Synthetic solvents are not used in the formulation. The Solvents are carrier oils such as coconut oil or almond oil, which act as a vehicle for dissolving other ingredients and enabling smooth application on the lips. This formulation utilizes coconut oil as the most effective solvent due to its excellent moisturizing properties, easy absorption and ability to dissolve other ingredients effectively. The balm's healing effect is further enhanced by its antimicrobial properties. Both therapeutic and Natural lip colour are provided by the medicated lip balm with beetroot Powder. Beetroot Powder can effectively add a natural colour while also providing antioxidant benefits. Even distribution of ingredients is ensured by the preparation technique and the balm is made safe nourishing for everyday use through the use of Natural Solvents such as coconut oil. The lips are kept moisturized and protected with the use of beeswax, butters, oils.⁷

3. Lip Balm containing Natural Dyes:

Written by Irmawati Akma Abdul Hapiz et.al. The mixture is likely made up of natural oils, waxes and natural dyes that are extracted from plant resources. They have used natural ingredients such as coconut oil, shea butter or almond oil in their formulation. The wax is responsible for structure, while oil Enhance smoothness and hydration. Natural dyes from plant material extracted through the use of different solvents. Natural solvent might include ethanol, water or a mixture of these to extract colour from plant materials. The concentration of the solvent and extraction conditions is important for such factors as temperature and time are carefully chosen to maximize dye yield. The process involves melting wax and mixing it with oils and extracted dyes. The combination of all ingredients is done at a controlled temperature. Further dispensing or transferring the mixture into Molds or container is done. Waiting for the mixture to cool and solidify. The lip balm stability, colour retention and hydration properties are typically included in the results. The product is evaluated based on its appearance, texture and safety. To ensure that the dyes are effective in providing colour without causing irritation. Ethanol is best solvent Due to its efficiency in extracting natural dyes it is relatively safe for cosmetic use.²

4. Herbal Lip Balm:

Written by Vaibhav Shrimant Wakte et. al. The natural ingredients are used in the Formulation of herbal lip balm include beeswax is a base that provide structure and protection. Herbal oils that contain Moisturizing properties include almond oil and coconut oil. Butter, such as shea butter and cocoa butter increase the nourishing effect. Aloe vera or neem are two example of herbal extracts that have therapeutic properties. Essential oil is used for fragrance and added benefits such as antibacterial or soothing effect. The lip balm was made by melting the beeswax and butters at a suitable temperature substituting oils and herbal extracts into the melted mixture. The formulation of a homogeneous mixture is achieved by blending all the ingredients together. The lip balm containers are used to store the mixture and allowed to solidify. Natural oils and waxes are the primary ingredients in the formulation of solvent. These are the carries for the herbal extracts and essential oils. The lip balm was evaluated for parameters like Moisturizing effects. The lip balm had good moisturizing effects. The product proved to be stable in terms of its physical properties (melting point and hardness). The best solvent was identified as Coconut oil due to its excellent emollient properties, ability to enhance the absorption of herbal ingredients and its stability. The natural herbal lip balm was found to be a product that is safe, effective and stable. Both moisturizing and therapeutic benefits can be obtained from it. Coconut oil is the best solvent because of its emollient and absorption properties.²⁰

5. Natural lip balms:

It is written by MS Nilanjana, J. Patil et.al. Safflower is used for the formulation of herbal lip balm. The main ingredients for making the herbal lip balm are coconut oil and almond oil. These oils function as both solvent and moisturizers in the formation, faciliting the dissolution of herbal extracts and nourishing the lips. The preparation of herbal extracts such as aloe vera, beetroot and turmeric were done using cold and hot infusion in oils. The main solvent carriers in the formation were beeswax, essential oil, shea butter or cocoa butter, coconut oil, almond oil, etc. Coconut oil has become the most effective solvent for improving absorption and delivering herbal benefits due to its high skin affinity and moisturizing properties and beeswax played a vital role in creating a lip balm that has a solid consistency and natural barrier to prevent moisture loss. The lip balm was generally successful in providing moisture, enhancing skin softness and creating a protective layer on lips. To make stable, nourishing lip balm with herbal extracts it is recommended to use natural solvent like coconut oil and beeswax.²¹

CONCLUSION:

The formulation of herbal lip balms offers a promising method for safe, natural, and effective lip care, leveraging the therapeutic properties of numerous herbal ingredients. This review highlights the different advantages of herbal lip balms, including their skin-friendly nature, negligible side effects, and potential for long-term lip nourishment. Important excipients such as natural oils like coconut oil, waxes, and essential oils contribute to the moisturizing, protective, and healing properties, increasing the overall efficacy of the product. Procedures for preparing herbal lip balms have also developed, focusing on methods that maintain the stability and bioactivity of the ingredients. Factors like excipient compatibility, stability, and sensory appeal play a vital role in optimizing formulations that meet costumer’s expectations and regulatory standards. Herbal lip balms not only address cosmetic needs but also provide therapeutic assistances, catering to an increasing demand for natural and organic skincare solutions. With continuing research and innovation, the formulation techniques and selection of herbal ingredients continue to improve, providing potential for personalized and functional lip care products. Forthcoming studies are recommended to further explore the pharmacological effects of various herbs, optimize formulations, and standardize procedures to safeguard quality and efficacy across diverse consumer markets.

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Received on 14.11.2024 Revised on 17.02.2025

Accepted on 18.04.2025 Published on 30.10.2025

Available online from November 08, 2025

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2025; 16(2):111-116.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2025.00018

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. Creative Commons License.